Main entry:

Lehmann, Ulrich.

Title & Author:

Tigersprung : fashion in modernity / Ulrich Lehmann.

Publication:

Cambridge, Mass. : MIT Press, ©2000.

Description:

xxi, 531 pages : illustrations ; 25 cm

Notes:
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Baudelaire, Gautier, and the origins of fashion in modernity -- Fashion written I -- Mode et modernité. Charles Baudelaire, the originator ; Théopile Gautier, the contemporary ; The feminine article ; The masculine mode -- Cravate rouge and blouse bleue -- What price revolution? -- The first tiger's leap -- Quote within a quote -- A passing fashion -- Mallarmé and the elegance of fashion in modernity -- Mode et modernité : Stéphane Mallarmé, the modernist -- The goddess -- The la(te)st fashion -- Fashion written II-IV. The epic and the epicene ; Mode et fiction -- modification ; Vocabulaire vestimentaire -- Mallarmé and his subscribers : corresponding ideals -- La dernière mode in retrospect : "après nous le délice?!" -- Simmel and the rationale of fashion in modernity -- Mode und moderne : Georg Simmel, the philosopher -- Simmel's methodology. Mode to measure ; Fashion, the fragment, and the whole -- Imitation and differentiation. La querelle des anciens et des modernes ; Imitor ergo sum ; Difference and reference -- The revolution in fashion -- Class and classification -- Critical theory versus Simmelian analogy -- The second tiger's leap -- Elements of fashion. The stranger ; Transitoriness -- Fin(esse) de siècle -- Fashion's phantom -- Benjamin and the revolution of fashion in modernity -- The object -- The idea of fashion -- Mode and metaphor. Skirting the memory ; Back in the fold -- Construction; work -- A fetish in fashion -- The confluence of mode et modernité -- Eternal recurrence and redemption -- Tigersprung. The third tiger's leap ; The standstill of the tiger (on the catwalk) -- Clothed history -- Fashioning the arcades -- Le revers : the other side of reality -- Death à la mode -- Consumption, redemption, or revolution?
The imagination of fashion in modernity -- Fashion written V -- Benjamin on Grandville and surrealism : the clothes of five years ago -- Mythe et mode -- Fashion written VI : a structured (pur)suit -- Dada's dandyism and surrealist imagination -- Fashion written VII : tailoring irony -- Aragon and Breton : le cabinet des cravates -- Vaché and Breton. Initiation and imitation ; L'éternel carré de dentelle -- Modern mythology. Monocularity ; On locomotives and top hats -- Conclusion.

Summary:

"The stage for this interplay between intellectual concept and sartorial expression is Parisian society from the mid-nineteenth to the mid-twentieth century. Lehmann focuses on a core of pivotal individuals, beginning with Charles Baudelaire in the 1850s, continuing with Stephane Mallarme and Georg Simmel, and arriving at Walter Benjamin, Louis Aragon, and Andre Breton almost a century later. The book's title comes from Benjamin's use of the German word Tigersprung (tiger's leap) to describe fashion's leap into the past to create an ever-changing present. Lehmann focuses in particular on Benjamin's Arcades Project as an unfinished work on the philosophy of fashion. He also looks at the role of fashion in the work of the dadaists and surrealists, who used clothes and accessories as simulacra for the human body and mind."--Jacket.

ISBN:

9780262122313 (hc. ; alk. paper)
0262122316 (hc. ; alk. paper)

Subject:

Clothing and dress History.
Clothing and dress Psychological aspects.
Fashion Psychological aspects.
Modernism (Aesthetics)
Costume Histoire.
Costume Aspect psychologique.
Mode Aspect psychologique.
Modernisme (Esthétique)
Clothing and dress.
Mode.
Moderniteit.

Form/genre:

History.

Holdings:

Location: Library main 227560
Call No.: GT580 .L44 2000
Status: Available